Ready! ... Set! ... Ride, Party, Ride, Party, Ride!

Sunday morning we woke up in Gateway. When you wake up in a unique place like this it's pretty impossible to not haul yourself out to try to catch the sunrise, no matter how exhausted you are. I'm a big fan of sunrises but I wasn't too sure what I'd get way out here in the middle of the continent in what seemed a lot like dry-bone no man's land. Pictures never begin to capture these things (you have to be there to truly 'see' it - part of why it's always so special, I suspect) but it was well worth sacrificing some sleep for this one.

Sunrise over Gateway. I have never met a sunrise I didn't like ... but some are better than others.

By 9am the gang had gathered. After signing waivers acknowledging that careening off a mountain was possibility but a risk we were willing to take, piling our luggage into the luggage van, and filling water bottles, the Lizard Head debriefing meeting began. Humphries, Lizard Head owner and guide, along with Chuck and Nicole, our other guides, explained the pertinent logistics, we all introduced ourselves, took some group photos (just in case someone actually made that waiver meaningful?), and we were off.

Who could pay attention to the gnomish figure in the floppy hat? We were all staring awe-struck at that gigantic red rock. You can actually hike to the top of that thing (somehow, around the back, not requiring scaling up the sheer rock wall) ... if only we'd had time. Photo Credit: John F Martin, Jr

The Gang (minus just a couple folks) at the Lizard Head Tour Kickoff Meeting: Left to Right: Steve(OH), Louise aka 'Fireball'(LA), David(LA), Tom(ATL), Courtney(ATL), Rodney(LA), Michael(SF), Scott(LA), Kathleen(OH), Tani(OH), Aaron(OH), Todd(OH, not LA), Donald(LA), Me(OH), JFM(OH), The Infamous Sada(OH), Ann(OH), Rocco(OH), Susan(OH), Richard(SF), and in front, The Lizard King(CO). Photo Credit: Either Chuck or Nicole expertly manning Ann's camera.

The ride out of Gateway and through the Dolores River Canyon was hot, dry and stunning. We didn't encounter any blast furnaces today, but there were a few odd stretches that were markedly 'toastier' than others - a pretty weird phenomenon to ride your bike through. It's tough not to gawk around as you're riding. There's so much 'nothing' out there that you can't help but wonder what 'somethings' might actually be lurking around that you just can't see (ever look out into the endlessly deep and wide ocean and wonder 'what's out there?' and freak yourself out just a little bit? Yeah, me neither). When I mentioned to one of the guides that I was hoping to see a mountain lion but so far was disappointed, I was casually told 'Well, they're really tough to see, this is their terrain and they blend into it very well. But don't worry, they spotted us a long time ago'. Another thing you notice out here is the large number of cattle guards across the roads ... relative to a seemingly low cow population (we saw and heard only one). This time I was told, 'Oh, well it's high summer, they drive the cattle way up on the tops of the mesas where there are plenty of green things to eat, and ponds of fresh water. I spent quite a while after that trying desperately to spot just one cow peeking over the edge (surely some must misjudge and get dangerously close?). No luck on either mountain lions or cows with death wishes, but it was still a spectacular ride.

See any cows up there? Me neither. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

Looking back towards Gateway. We just rode our bikes from there. To here. Our bikes! Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

The whole area looks more-or-less 'untouched' by humans - there are no neon signs, no Wal-Marts or golden arches, barely even a man-made structure, a shed, a lean-to, anywhere to be seen in any direction - which made me wonder about it's history: could it really have gone through time without anyone trying to tame it? We humans are not exactly known for leaving things alone ... It's called the Dolores River Canyon - The Canyon of the River of Sorrows. You have to figure a place must have done something to earn a name like that. It did. If you're interested try this: The River of Sorrows: The History of the Dolores River Valley.

The River of Sorrows and its Canyon. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

The Lizard Head lunch stop was truly an oasis, conveniently located with relatively easy access to a little hidden creek which most of us headed straight to right off our bikes (food could wait, or, if not, some folks brought their plates and ate while sitting in the middle of the creek). Already sweat-soaked it was hardly a big deal to just throw your whole-self right in. The water was cool and refreshing and so clear and clean that you could find a backward-scooting crawdad under every rock you turned (I tested. It was true), and countless fleets of those little bitty fish that nibble almost (but not quite) imperceptibly on your feet. With several of us strewn in and around the creek, lying on rocks, sunning in the cool waters, floating downstream, paddling back upstream, loving life, it was tough to leave this place ... but we eventually had to dry off and pile into the van for the drive to Telluride for the night.

The creek. Folks were undoubtedly getting little love-nibbles by crawdads and fish as this picture was taken. They look like they care, don't they? Photo Credit: Steve Fields

As dry-bone-hot and dusty as Gateway and the Dolores River Canyon was ... Telluride was lush green and moist. How two such different environments can exist so near each other is pretty unbelievable for those of us who come from areas where it's nothing-but-the-same for almost as far as we can drive in a day's time.  But there it was. After barely a couple hours drive the view changed drastically before our eyes. The Tour didn't come here last year, but I was told by one of the guys on last year's tour who lives here, that I *really* should come see Telluride sometime as it was something special - it didn't take too long to understand what he meant. My other scout trips still hadn't brought me here yet so I was glad to finally see this place. It's not an easy place to get to ... which might be a big part of what makes it special, and keeps it special.

A herd of elk enjoying the lush greenness of Telluride. You might not think elk 'play' but the little ones bounding around the herd like ping-pong balls would indicate otherwise. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

We walked to a remarkable group dinner at The Sheridan on Telluride's main drag .... complete with a surprise celebration for our guide Nicole's birthday (I won't disclose her age, but I will say her wisdom of both people and of Colorado is far greater than her very-young-pup years). A few folks went out and had a cocktail after, met some of the locals (there's at least one young man in town who drinks way too much and has been very unlucky in love, we wished him the best), and then retired to our monstrous suites at Camel's Garden Lodge. Steve, one of our midwest posse, had an interesting night chasing a strange guy through the woods who he caught peering in the window at his scantily clad (ie, naked) sleeping roommate ... after a couple pursuits he gave up and (wisely!) reported the incident to hotel security. I suppose there are crazy people everywhere in the world - even magnificent places like this (the peeper, not Steve ... though chasing a guy in the dark through unknown woods MAY be considered crazy by some). One ride and one party down ... we were more than ready for bed.

Group dinner and birthday celebration in Telluride. Photo Credit and owner of the frosty paperweight: Rocco Maiolo

As an added bonus to the day, as luck would have it, today's Washington Post featured an article: Wheeling through Colorado's High Country about Lizard Head's Colorado Cols Tour (a 'cols' is a mountain pass, don't feel bad, I had to google it too) and our "gnomish guide with his floppy leather hat and child's passion for bicycling" ... which we all found to be fun to read ... and inarguable.

Monday morning was 'Scout the Ride, Telluride' - a local event sponsored by Lizard Head (whose World Headquarters happen to be based in Telluride's neighboring town of Ophir) and several other local businesses. It started at Paragon Sports (one of Telluride's local bikeshops - yes, a population of 2000 has more than one bikeshop, you're liking this place more and more, aren't you?) on the main street in town, which as you might have guessed, was also where the Pro Tour finish line was being setup: today's Pro stage would be coming the opposite direction as we were riding, up and over Lizard Head pass, and down into Telluride. Those of us on the tour were automatically registered for 'Scout the Ride' - we just had to show up at the bike shop ready to go. The morning started with rain, and it would continue on and off all day, but somehow it didn't put much of a damper on the festivities. We did have a couple of unfortunate mechanical failures that DID cause a slight damper for some - one of our NOLA crew had his stem fell apart at the start, and one of the Atlanta contingent had a busted spoke early on in the ride, but luckily close enough to ride safely back into town ... both were dealt with as quickly as possible to get them back on the road. Aside from these, and 2 flats that I know of (one was before the start of the initial bonus-ride), I don't think we saw any other faults the whole trip (?). For 2 dozen people and 8 days of riding that's not too shabby at all!

'Scout the Ride' Promo Poster. We looked just like these guys. I was too far in the back to see the shapely gal in the 1950's dress and hat, but I'm sure she was there. 

The start of Scout the Ride. They were finishing setting up the US Pro Tour Finish line as we took off. We rode out backwards (directionally, not rolling in reverse ... though that would've been interesting too) through the Pro's finish chute. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

Our ride would take us up and over Lizard Head pass - the namesake of our fine tour company. It was our first 'real' climb and we got our first taste of 35mph descents and on wet roads to make it even more exciting. The RWTR hadn't fired up quite yet so even the main contenders were able to relax and enjoy the lush pine forest covered mountains, a few gorgeous little natural lakes with homes that you couldn't help but daydream about living in for just a moment (I'm betting several of us triathletes were helplessly socked with visions of early morning open water swims, right out our backdoors, while watching the sun peek up over the mountains). Folks that wanted to ride longer had two additional manned aid stations beyond the pass that they could ride to before turning around and heading back.  

We'd just have to imagine the blazing streaks of sun on this day, but the resemblance was still unmistakable. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

At the top of Lizard Head pass our guides staked out the Lizard Head Party Complex. The plan was to ride however much we wanted, then meet up and cheer the Pro's on from here - what better way for Lizard Head Cycling Guides to represent? Both vans and trailers, a tent, a grill, plenty of gourmet food and drink (including piping hot coffee and tea, from the grill!? - these guys thought of everything), chairs and blankets (rain-soaked at 10,000ft can get a little chilly), cowbells and spray paint - and a whole passel of flatlanders - what more could we ask for? Pro team buses and their other non-critical support vehicles zoomed by a couple hours ahead of the peloton, almost all honking at our getup, a few tossing out cheering paraphernalia. One RadioShack Nissan Trek (RNT) car went by, honking wildly as we cheered, with a garage sale sign on the side that said "FOR SALE CHEAP: Jens' Bike". (More about Jens later, but if you aren't familiar with the name he's a veteran Pro racing for RNT, nearing retirement, who said recently that when he's done racing his bike is going into the corner of the garage to collect cobwebs and maybe, only if the kids insist, he'll get it out once or twice a year to go down the street to the ice cream shop. Yeah, I know, you already like this guy don't you? Tell me about it). The Lizard was in attendance, of course, along with a cow, a guy wearing giant antlers (remember the antlers The Grinch strapped onto Max the dog? Yep, like that), and several cowboys (with their horses). When the Pro peloton came by (1 guy out in front - I think it was Tommy Danielson, local boy and crowd favorite), followed by a couple small chase groups .... and then the whole peloton) it was electric! Those of us who were on the tour last year knew what to expect and were still giddy ... but for those who weren't, who were experiencing their first taste of Pro cyclists whizzing by just a couple feet from you, over roads you JUST had your own bike on ... the excitement was unreal.

Waiting for the Pro peloton at the Lizard Head party complex. Ever play Where's Waldo? Where's the Lizard? Photo Credit: Kathleen Carmody (it's not really 9:33pm 11/1/2009, I swear, and Kathleen promises to fix the date on her camera before the next trip)

A Dad teaching his kids how to properly spray paint JENS on the road before the Pro peloton arrives. Note how the youngsters stay safely on the side of the road? Now that's good parenting. Photo Credit: Kathleen Carmody

The Lizard cheers for everyone. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

Here they come!!! Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

The Lizard Head cheering squad covered both sides of the road. Even the little guys were all-in with flags and banners. They showed up on the stage's TV coverage. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

After the last of the support cars flew by and the sweeper car went through (you can't mistake it - it has a giant 'End of Peloton' sign on it, is driven by people with monstrous grins (no idea how you get that job), and is decorated with several large unmistakable push-brooms - this was a nice add-on since last year for those of us who would get mercilessly run-down by the peloton over the next several days - as soon as it passes you can get back on your bike, mere moments after the Pros blow through ... back onto the exact same pavement they just rolled over ...) we started gearing up for our ride back down into Telluride. Generally spent from the climb up and the hours of Pro excitement, we still pushed to get back into town while watching a storm brewing. Some would get caught in a short but intense deluge, some would press on, others would find cover to wait it out. In some places you could see the storm ahead, but by the time you got there all that was left was the foamy sheet of water covering the road. After getting back into town some bolted to the hotel for dry clothes, others headed for a warm cup of coffee, others rode around town just not wanting to put their bikes away for the day. The town was still generating a solid low-hum from the Pro finish not long before. Bob Roll was still wandering the streets doing interviews. It had to be one of the most exciting days Telluride had seen in a long time ... it was definitely one of the most exciting days some of US had seen in a long time!

On the ride back down to Telluride. A gorgeous carpet of green along with the massive San Juan mountains.

Also on the ride back down to Telluride, moments later (but still not 11/1/2009). The light, and the weather, changed quickly as the storm rolled in.

 

Trying to beat the storm down the mountain. Some of us did. Some of us didn't. Didn't matter . It was remarkable to watch it roll in, over, and out, no matter where you were. Photo Credit: Rocco Maiolo

You never know who you'll run into just walking around town after the US Pro Tour blows through. We all have our heroes!

We didn't meet up as a group for dinner - after a long day, folks were ready to do their own thing. Warm showers, dry clothes, hot tubs, food, naps - whatever you needed. Some took the always-free ski-gondola up to a small village for dinner. Others ate in the hotel or back up on main street where dinner was the night before, and where the day had started what now seemed like eons ago. A few of us met up in one of our Brady-Bunch-sized party-rooms for the 9pm local replay of the race and cheered like fools when we spotted some of our group on the TV footage from Lizard Head pass.

Telluride, from the gondola (can you tell this is after the storm went through?). Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

Sunset in Telluride, from waaaaay up at the top of the gondola. The little pile of buildings in the lower left is the town, boxed in snugly by the San Juan mountains. Photo Credit: Ann Kurtenbach

Over the next three days, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, we'd have the possibility for back-to-back-to-back hundred-plus mile days, with the infamous Queen Stage (and her two 12,000ft mountains) sandwiched in the middle. The RWTR would be FULL ON starting tomorrow and wouldn't end until 5 days later, just like last year, with whoever touched the hotel door in Boulder first. I don't think any of us felt the need to add-on yet another party tonite. Instead, we were content to be nestled under our warm dry covers with high hopes for 6-7 solid hours of sweet sweet sleep, excited beyond reason, and ... unless you were made of steel ... probably at least a little bit nervous ...